Musée Delacroix: A Small Paris Museum Worth Knowing

A Little Museum in the Middle of Paris

The Musée National Eugène-Delacroix is cute and intimate. I have now visited four times during my ten visits to Paris, and this time I thought it was better than before, although I was not as impressed with the house and the way the collection was presented as I had been previously.

The atelier is another story. That alone is more than worth the visit. There is something special about standing inside the studio where Delacroix actually worked. Here he worked, here he was inspired, and here he spent much of his time. I kept that thought in the back of my mind while looking around. The museum is also completely focused on one artist. You don't get the sheer size of a place like the Louvre, where it is easy to become overwhelmed. Here, everything comes back to Delacroix.

Inside the Atelier

The studio is absolutely incredible. I particularly love seeing how many original works are hanging there, but some of the smaller things are just as interesting.

You can see his palettes, work boxes and paints. One little detail surprised me: his colours were neatly organised. It is such a small thing, but seeing the materials an artist actually used gives you a different way of looking at the finished paintings.

There was also a peculiar personal connection for me. One of the models Delacroix painted is someone I know from a study drawing by my mentor, which hangs in his house. Seeing the same model here gave the museum a little connection for me that was completely unexpected.

Those small links are fun. You suddenly recognise something that belongs to a much larger artistic history.

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Delacroix and Morocco

The oriental paintings are probably my favourite part of the collection. What makes them particularly interesting is seeing the difference before and after Delacroix's journey to Morocco in 1832. Before the journey, his depiction of the Orient was more sensual. Afterwards, it changed completely.

I find that fascinating because Delacroix himself recognised that he had been wrong. His later depiction of women became much more respectful. They were no longer simply objects of lust. Reading his diaries and books about his trip to the Magreb makes this development even more interesting. You can see an artist working through his own ideas and changing his way of seeing. That learning curve is something I find important when looking at artists.

The museum also reminded me that Delacroix worked on frescoes for churches. His approach to those works is quite different from other frescoes I know, although very much in the spirit of his period.

Who Should Go?

The garden is beautiful and tranquil. It is a small place in the centre of the city where you can get your thoughts in order for a little while.

I would particularly recommend the museum to someone who actually paints. If someone is interested in painting as a practice rather than simply looking at paintings, I would love to send them here. The palettes, paints, boxes and studio make that side of Delacroix much more immediate.

For someone who is already spending time in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, it can also be a very nice small detour. If Delacroix interests you, definitely go. If the artist does not do much for you, I would probably spend the hour somewhere else.

For me, though, the atelier is enough reason to return. I have already been four times, and I am sure I will go again.

Looking for a quieter side of Paris?

The Musée Delacroix is small, intimate and completely focused on one artist, but the real reason to visit is the extraordinary atelier where Delacroix actually worked. See his palettes, paints, work boxes and original works, then explore how his artistic vision changed after his journey to Morocco.

Book your call here.

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Robert Poortinga  
Travel Booking Assistant  
River cruise & Europe destination expert  
Culinary and art travel specialist

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