The Great Stables & Gardens of Chantilly

The Grandeur of the Stables and the property

The first thing we noticed about the Great Stables at Chantilly was the length of the building. You see the massive tracks in front of it first, then the height becomes apparent when you enter. In the middle is the great dome where the equestrian shows take place, with hundreds of seats for spectators.

“Holy moly, that is big, that is massive!” was pretty much the reaction.

The stables were commissioned by Louis-Henri de Bourbon, Prince of Condé, and built by Jean Aubert between 1719 and 1735. There is also the wonderful legend that Louis-Henri believed he would be reincarnated as a horse and wanted a suitable place for his next life. Whether you believe the story or not, it certainly fits the scale of what he built. Standing there, it is extraordinary to imagine the hunting parties that once took place at Chantilly. The stables could accommodate around 240 horses and up to 240 hounds. This was not simply somewhere to keep a few horses.

Horses are still part of Chantilly

What I liked most was that the stables are still alive. There are horses there, of course, but we also saw other animals. I have a fascination with donkeys. They are often overlooked despite how much they have done for farming and transporting goods, so seeing them there was a wonderful surprise. There is an old saying about Chantilly being a place of 10,000 people and 10,000 horses. After seeing the Great Stables, it makes sense. The connection between the town and horses is still very visible through racing, shows and demonstrations.

We had also sent a picture of the Great Stables to one of our clients who loves horses. It immediately went onto her bucket list. That seemed like a pretty good test. For me, though, you don't need to be passionate about horses to appreciate the place. The building itself is extraordinary, and the Living Museum of the Horse adds another layer to it.

A garden big enough to stop

The gardens were another surprise because of their sheer size. The property is gigantic, and that gives the whole estate a sense of space that photographs don't really convey. We were actually tired when we reached the gardens. Travel inspections involve a lot of moving from one place to another without much time to stop. So we sat for ten minutes underneath a tree beside a little pond, looking towards the château in the shade.

I have a beautiful picture from that moment. You see the château from the side with the park in front of it. We simply needed those ten minutes before continuing. The gardens connect the estate together for me. The château sits above them, almost like a guard, while the Great Stables are connected through the park. Together they make Chantilly feel like a complete castle property rather than several separate sights.

‍

One small trick for visiting Chantilly

If I were doing the visit again, I would change one thing. We had pre-booked tickets that allowed us to enter through the park, but we didn't realise this at the time. Instead, we went by road through the main entrance. For our clients, that's a little trick worth knowing: if your ticket allows entry through the park, I would take that route.

I would still give myself more time inside the château. I am a painting addict, after all, and I have happily taken Marisa to ten museums simply to see paintings. She loves art too, so she survived it rather well. The Great Stables and gardens are impressive, but for me the paintings would still win another afternoon.

Read other articles about our visit at Chantilly: 

The Collection of Chantilly: Inside the Musée Condé
Chantilly: A Castle Built Around a Life, a Collection and a Loss
DeSalvio Travel Review of Virtuoso Hotel Auberge de Jeu de Paume. Chantilly, France

‍

Plan Your Chantilly Experience

Chantilly works particularly well when you allow time for more than one part of the estate. The château, gardens and Great Stables each have a completely different character, and we can help you decide how much time to give each. If you are passionate about art, horses, history or simply want to experience the property without rushing from one sight to another, we can build Chantilly into a private itinerary around your interests and pace.

‍

Book your call here.

‍

Robert Poortinga  
Travel Booking Assistant  
River cruise & Europe destination expert  
Culinary and art travel specialist

Concert Pianist

‍